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travel | architecture | style | culture

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Postcard from Bucks County

richard bence April 8, 2019

Bucks County, Pennsylvania—Walking down the streets of Doylestown or New Hope in the 1930s or 40s, you might have glimpsed humorist Dorothy Parker at a lunch counter or satirist S. J. Perelman hanging at the hardware store with a bunch of Pulitzer-Prize-winning writers. Bucks County became such a well-known haven for creativity that the New York media began to call it "the genius belt."

The Pennsylvania Art Impressionist movement was born in New Hope in 1900 and made Bucks County internationally famous. It remains a haven for creativity. And it has the Bucks County Playhouse, a former mill first turned into a theater in 1939. It was this playhouse that helped lay the foundation for the city's gay scene in the 1950s.

In the mid-century, New Hope, conveniently located at the midpoint between Philadelphia and New York City, became a destination for LGBT travelers. While many LGBT visitors were passers-through, others fell in love with New Hope and made it a permanent home. In 1979, the popular Raven opened in an already-established LGBT destination, La Camp at the Brookmore Motel. The Raven appears to be on hiatus following management issues, but the New Hope Lodge located across the street is a cute alternative. Each May, New Hope hosts one of the East Coast’s biggest and best Pride festivals (New Hope Celebrates), with a parade that crosses the bridge into Lambertville, New Jersey.

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Postcard from North Adams

richard bence April 7, 2019

The former industrial town of North Adams in far northwestern Massachusetts rivals Marfa, Texas as an incubator for avant-garde art. With long-term installations by the artists Jenny Holzer, Laurie Anderson and light magician James Turrell, MASS MoCA is the largest contemporary art museum in the country. Music icon Annie Lennox will share stories and perform songs to kick off a day-long celebration of MASS MoCA’s 20-year anniversary on May 25.

Former roadside motel Tourists has been reborn as a chic bolthole catering to those making the art pilgrimage. Located on the banks of the Hoosic River, landscape architecture firm Reed Hildebrand has filled the grounds with apple trees, sugar maples, and sumac, and built a wooden suspension bridge that crosses the river. It snowed when I stayed in early April, but I imagine the pool comes into its own in the summer months.

My room ('Ramble') had an outdoor deck and a window nook daybed for tree gazing. I loved the stylish knickknacks and being able to place your breakfast order by text was a nice touch. Tourists is dog-friendly, and only a three-and-a-half-hour drive from NYC through the pines and elms of Upstate New York and Massachusetts.

touristswelcome.com; massmoca.org

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Postcard from Buffalo

richard bence April 6, 2019

Buffalo, New York, the easternmost Midwestern city, is blessed by masterpieces from some of the biggest names in American architecture including Louis Sullivan, Frank Lloyd Wright and Henry Hobson Richardson. Highlights include:

Darwin Martin House

Frank Lloyd Wright once called it a “well-nigh perfect composition” and he might be right. Designed in 1903 for a Buffalo businessman who was, at the time, the highest-paid executive in corporate America, this multi-building estate is as stunning as its creator suggests.

Guaranty Building

Louis Sullivan’s Guaranty Building (1895), an early skyscraper design that shows the father of American modernism at his peak, is the city’s crown jewel. The interior lobby, lined with tile mosaics, elevator cages, and intricate staircases, is sublime.

Hotel Henry

Stephen Brockman, senior principal at New York-based Deborah Berke Partners, led the rehabilitation of this castle-like compound into a stunning hotel. Spread across 93 acres, the former psychiatric hospital was built in 1870 and designed by a young Henry Hobson Richardson (whom the hotel is named after), with grounds by Frederick Law Olmsted (Central Park). hotel henry.com

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Postcard from Gary

richard bence February 18, 2019

It all began with a vision in 1905 by Elbert H. Gary, founder of U.S. Steel. The industrial colossus, then the largest corporation in the world, footed the bill for Gary’s magnificent civic structures. When the plant went into decline, so did the rest of the town. The palace theater, one of the glories of Gary’s golden age, shut down entirely in 1972.

Gordon Keith, the owner of Steeltown Records in Gary, Indiana, discovered the Jackson Five and signed them to their first contract in November 1967. In March 1969, they signed to Motown. In August of 1969 Motown Records moved Joe, Michael, and the rest of the Jackson 5 out to Los Angeles.

 

To give some historical context, in April 1968, the greatest wave of social unrest since the Civil War was sweeping the nation following the assassination of Martin Luther King. This was preceded by the 1967 riots in Detroit—fueled by widespread unemployment as the motor city’s famed automobile industry shed jobs.

There are still a few factories and a few neighborhoods with nice homes, but much like Detroit, some parts are overgrown, others burned-down or just rubble. To be among these abandoned buildings is to be in a place removed. A relic from another time that is still home for those who got left behind. Leaving was an option few blacks had. Unless you were Joe Jackson.

 

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Postcard from Chicago

richard bence February 11, 2019

Chicago is American history in microcosm. Andrew Diamond, the author of Chicago on the Make, has called Chicago “a combination of Manhattan smashed against Detroit.” The disappearance of industrial jobs and the businesses that supported them in the 1960s and 70s jump-started a downward spiral in many neighborhoods.

A few miles to the south, Pullman Village is a model for what a company town could aspire to be - in ideals if not in execution. Built between 1880-84, George Pullman created a utopian town for his workers, but he also supported the false economy of tipping, a way to get away with not paying black workers after slavery was abolished.

Many people credit Pullman porters as significant contributors to the development of America's black middle class, but they had to pay for their own food, do unpaid prep work and supply their own uniforms. And they did it all in railroad cars in which they themselves would not have been allowed to travel in during Jim Crow segregation.

Most Pullman porters lived in Chicago. “They took a menial job and made it something of substance and stature,” said Lyn Hughes, founder and president of the National A Philip Randolph/Pullman Porter Museum Gallery. Against all odds, Pullman porters formed a union in 1925: the Brotherhood of Sleeping Car Porters.


pullmanportermuseum.com

Cheryl & Griffith at Back in the Day, Savannah

Cheryl & Griffith at Back in the Day, Savannah

Postcard from Savannah

richard bence January 11, 2019

Georgia was named after King George II in 1733. Savannah was co-founded by James Oglethorpe as a bulwark between the thriving British metropolis of Charleston and the Spanish enemies. Considered America’s first planned city, the idea was to give debtors a new lease of life but the utopian plan wasn’t realized. By 1750, slavery arrived with a vengeance. Between 1761 and 1771 alone, some 10,000 slaves were sold in the markets near the wharfs, where boats loaded with suffering human cargo would arrive from the Caribbean and Africa. It was through this area that hundreds of thousands of slaves were brought through during the 1700 and 1800's. The enslaved were unloaded from the ships and marched into the buildings along River Street. The sorrow and helpless feelings of those enslaved men, women and children can still be felt in the catacombs on Factors Walk.


By 1810, some 44 percent of the workforce was enslaved. In 1860, the population of the city was 22,000, with some 17,000 enslaved people and 700 free blacks, many of whom owned slaves themselves. Then came the Civil War. Being a port city, making it an invaluable prize as a naval base and supply center, Savannah was spared from ignition by Union forces in 1865. But the New South was another form of misery for the freed slaves who suffered not only from terrorist organizations like the KKK but from political corruption, economic control and violent intimidation. In the 1890’s, lynching was at its barbaric height, and Jim Crow legalized what custom dictated. More than 4,000 African Americans were lynched in the U.S. between 1877 and 1950. Slavery didn’t end. It evolved.

***********

OK, so while the legacy of racial injustice and the trauma of these atrocities are all around you hanging thick in the air, that doesn’t mean you shouldn’t visit. In fact the South has long presented some of America’s most exciting and delicious food. Today, Savannah, famous for its shady oak-filled squares draped in dreamy Spanish Moss, is brimming with artisans and gourmands doing innovative things with Southern ingredients. By honouring the past without being overly wedded to it, transplants like Cheryl & Griffith at Back in the Day (Savannah, GA) are creating culinary alchemy.

 

 

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Postcard from German Village

richard bence November 16, 2018

Deeply embedded in our infrastructure are the values of past eras that accepted a world view where some folks were in, and some folks were out. In America, the formation of some of the poorest parts of the cities are inexorably linked to the formation of the freeways, the creation of the suburbs and the forced importance of automobiles in the post-World War II era. When the white middle class left in droves for the suburbs, their money went with them, shifting the tax base away from the city. The roads served to transport suburbanites to their city jobs. Gridlocked by the freeway, lower income neighborhoods – predominantly black – were conceived principally as obstructions to the flow of traffic, and thus targeted for removal. Each of these communities contained something less tangible – neighborhoods like these are ecosystems. They incubate communities and cultures that do not and could not exist elsewhere. German Village, then called the South End, was one such neighborhood, which by the late 1950's had become badly deteriorated. Like a giant knife, the Interstate sliced off a third of the old neighborhood, isolating it from downtown Columbus. Bisected, what remained of the community quickly fell into decline. The city designated the area blighted, and it was scheduled for demolition and urban renewal. Then along came Frank Fetch, a former city parks commissioner, who is credited with spearheading the revitalization of the neighborhood. In 1960, the German Village Society was formed with the sole purpose of saving the community. The original founders of the society were mostly gay men (it was harder for women to get mortgages then) who worked to repair their own brick streets, formed business associations, and had a vision of what could happen within 20 years. This tidy piece of Americana, painstakingly restored and saved from urban renewal, is a testament to the dogged determination of a group of individuals who saw value in a neighborhood – originally built by enterprising immigrants in the 19th century – that nearly got lost to the wrecking ball of history. Today, it’s one of the premier historic districts in the country and a highly desirable neighborhood. In the same way white flight defined the auto-obsessed post-war exodus of white families from American cities, now affluent empty nesters are flocking back to German Village for its walkability and sense of community.

 

Village Lights, December 2nd 5-9pm.

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Postcard from North Carolina

richard bence November 5, 2018


Nestled in the picturesque Blue Ridge Mountains, Asheville, North Carolina, is home to the breathtaking Biltmore Estate, a masterpiece of Gilded Age opulence. Constructed between 1889 and 1895 by George Vanderbilt, this architectural marvel sprawls across 125,000 acres of lush grounds, crafted by the legendary Frederick Law Olmsted, the genius behind New York’s Central Park.


Asheville itself is a vibrant hub of art, culture, and history, attracting visitors with its eclectic galleries, historic architecture, and a lively culinary scene. The Biltmore, with its stunning vistas and intricate gardens, stands as a testament to the city’s rich heritage and the vision of its founder. Olmsted’s design not only enhanced the estate’s beauty but also integrated the natural landscape into the fabric of Asheville, creating a seamless blend of elegance and nature.


Explore the grandeur of Biltmore while immersing yourself in the charm of Asheville, where history, creativity, and the stunning Appalachian backdrop come together in perfect harmony. Discover more at biltmore.com

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Postcard from Kentucky

richard bence November 2, 2018

A ghost walk with writer and raconteur David Dominé is highly recommended if you ever find yourself in Louisville, Kentucky. A mine of information, his tour is an educational and entertaining sojourn through the seriously spooky streets of Old Louisville. Packed with perfectly preserved gothic mansions, this time capsule has gained the reputation as being America’s most haunted neighborhood. On the tour, you visit the house where Kentucky couple Jeffrey Mundt and Joseph Banis were arrested for the grizzly murder of Jamie Carroll in 2009. Dominé delves deep into the sordid details of the case, before guiding you to other haunted houses where ghostly goings on have allegedly occurred. These include the fortress-like Conrad-Caldwell mansion, pictured, one of the finest examples of Richardsonian Romanesque architecture, adorned with gargoyles and all manner of opulence. Both Mr and Mrs Caldwell died in the home, and there have been many incidents that indicate she still haunts the mansion. Whether you believe in ghosts or not, it’s just a very cool way to get the inside track on a city which, incidentally, F. Scott Fitzgerald got to know quite well while stationed there. The Seelbach hotel’s grand ballroom served as the setting for Daisy and Tom’s wedding in “The Great Gatsby”, while downstairs, The Rathskeller is a subterranean grotto ballroom with strange occult and masonic symbols giving it a powerfully creepy vibe. Al Capone had secret tunnels in and out of the place. Faulkner’s line “The past is not dead. It’s not even past” is as pertinent for Gatsby and his “green light” as it is for the phantoms of Old Louisville. daviddomine.com

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Postcard from Falling Water

richard bence October 14, 2018

Frank Lloyd Wright’s Fallingwater (1935) was built for the Kaufmann family, owners of Pittsburgh’s leading department store. The unsung hero of Fallingwater is the son, Edgar jr who first introduced his parents to Wright and inherited the house in 1955. Edgar jr lived there until 1963 then gave it away to the Western Pennsylvania Conservancy. His gift of Fallingwater was one of the most meaningful gestures of architectural philanthropy of the 20th century. Edgar jr shared his life with Paul Mayén, who designed the stunning visitor center. So often, as gay people, our stories get sanitised or totally erased from the history books. The guide today was explicit about Edgar jr being a gay man and I am grateful for that factoid. 5 million people have visited since the doors opened in 1964. fallingwater.org

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Postcard from Columbus

richard bence July 2, 2018

 

Through the 50’s and 60’s, a wealthy industrialist named J. Irwin Miller invited the world’s leading architects to remake Columbus, Indiana into an unlikely headquarters for the avant-garde. Acting as patron, Miller became the Medici of the Midwest, and single-handedly transformed remote little Columbus into a mecca of modern architecture. Show-stopping buildings include The North Christian Church (1964), above, by Finish-American architect Eero Saarinen, most famous for the TWA terminal building at JFK, as well as Miller’s own house (1957), a modernist masterpiece with gardens by Dan Kiley and interiors by Alexander Girard.

 

A true pioneer, Miller was an activist as well as a philanthropist. Working with Martin Luther King Jr, he was a strong advocate for the Civil Rights Act (1964). He was someone who felt change and improvement was something to be embraced rather than feared. Thanks to his dedication to fine architecture and his understanding of the importance of civic art, this small Midwestern town is ranked alongside architectural heavyweights New York and Chicago. To honor and protect that legacy, an annual event called Exhibit Columbus aims to inspire other communities to invest in design to make people and cities stronger.

 

National Symposium, 26-29 September 2018; exhibitcolumbus.com

Robert Plant in 1975, looking down from the Continental Hyatt balcony to a large billboard on Sunset Boulevard advertising the Led Zeppelin album “Physical Graffiti.”

Robert Plant in 1975, looking down from the Continental Hyatt balcony to a large billboard on Sunset Boulevard advertising the Led Zeppelin album “Physical Graffiti.”

Postcard from LA

richard bence May 26, 2018

I am staying at a fabled hotel where the debauchery and nihilism of the 1970s rock scene reached its zenith when it became the go-to destination for touring rock groups due to its close proximity to the clubs on Sunset Strip. It was often referred to at the time as the Riot House, a play on the hotel’s former name Hyatt House. 

 

In fact, Room 1015 bears the distinction of being where Rolling Stones guitarist Keith Richards dropped a TV out the window in 1972. The Who's Keith Moon was also reported to have dropped a TV out of one of the hotel's windows. This is where Jim Morrison lived when the Doors were the house band at the Whiskey a Go-Go until he was reportedly evicted by management for hanging out a window by his fingertips, dangling over the pavement. The infamous balconies are now, alas, glass-enclosed sunrooms that overlook Sunset Boulevard.

 

The storied hotel, which came to life in 1963 as Gene Autry's Hotel Continental, was reborn in 2009 as Andaz West Hollywood. New York-based architecture and interior design firm Janson Goldstein LLP handled the renovation. Looking out on Sunset Strip and the purple haze of Jacaranda trees beyond, it’s amazing to think that Elton John would have shared this view when he and his entourage stayed at the then-Hyatt House on Elton's first trip to America in August 1970. It's kind of cool that as mere mortals, we get to sleep where rock gods once rampaged through the hallways getting no sleep at all while we deliberate on important things like which factor sunscreen to use.

Diego Rivera mural

Diego Rivera mural

Postcard from Detroit

richard bence April 22, 2018

Exploring Detroit’s post-industrial ruins is a journey through a landscape of melancholic beauty and quiet resilience. The remnants of the city’s glory days—a silent testament to its once towering ambitions—invite both awe and reflection. In Pole Town, where I stayed, the streets are slowly returning to prairie, with tall grasses mingling with urban farms and guerrilla art installations that stand as symbols of the city’s fight to reimagine itself. But be prepared: this is an apocalyptic glimpse of what happens when the system collapses. Empty factories and crumbling cottages haunt the skyline, relics of what were once thriving working-class neighborhoods.


A century ago, Detroit was the heartbeat of American innovation, a city where the future seemed boundless. Home to legends like Aretha Franklin, Diana Ross, and Madonna, it was also where Henry Ford’s Model T revolutionized mass production, laying the foundations for the modern world. Ford’s assembly lines brought the dream of mobility to the masses, while Berry Gordy’s Motown empire mirrored this industrial precision, churning out pop hits with a rhythm that defined an era. Detroit was both motor and melody.


So how did such a symbol of American might falter? Unlike LA, Detroit placed all its hopes on the corporate titans of the auto industry. Suburban sprawl, the 1967 race riots, the collapse of manufacturing, and the 2008 financial crisis decimated the city’s population. What was once a booming metropolis became a shadow of its former self, with entire neighborhoods abandoned. While some areas are finding new life, others linger on the edge, teetering toward oblivion.


The roots of Detroit’s decline are entwined with systemic racial inequalities. Experts point to decades of redlining and discriminatory policies that locked the city’s growing black population into cycles of poverty. Even today, black Detroiters are far more likely to be denied loans than their white counterparts. The exodus of 1.5 million white residents over the last 50 years has left an indelible mark on the city’s social and economic fabric, creating an enduring divide.


Begin your exploration at the Detroit Institute of Arts, where Diego Rivera’s Detroit Industry Murals stand as a towering homage to the city’s labor force. Painted between 1932 and 1933, Rivera’s 27-panel fresco captures the dynamism of Detroit’s industrial might. His workers are not faceless cogs, but a vibrant collective force—an interpretation that surely would have irked Ford, a notorious anti-unionist.


Next, head to Corktown, where the derelict Michigan Central Station looms like a fallen titan. Once a proud gateway to the Midwest, this Beaux-Arts behemoth has been empty since the 1980s, its shattered windows and graffiti-covered walls a stark reminder of the city’s decline. But plans for its revival are underway—an architectural phoenix set to rise from the ashes.


While you're in the city, don't miss a Pure Detroit tour. If you’re lucky, you’ll catch Jake, whose passion for the city is infectious. His tour of the Guardian Building, a dazzling Art Deco marvel that once held the fortunes of the auto industry, is a must. Another highlight is the Packard Automotive Plant, the crumbling crown jewel of Detroit’s abandoned factories, designed by Albert Kahn in 1911. Once the epicenter of American automotive prowess, it’s now a playground for urban explorers and installation artists alike—famously the site of a tiger escape. Purchased for a mere $405,000 in 2013, its future as a mixed-use development is finally taking shape.


Downtown Detroit is experiencing a renaissance of its own, with chic, retrofitted spaces giving the city a new lease on life. Stop by the Siren Hotel, a stylish renovation of the Wurlitzer Building, where the lobby’s vintage charm and artful design offer a moment of calm. Next door, the neo-Gothic Metropolitan Building is being transformed into the Element Hotel, preserving its 1920s jewelry emporium past while embracing a sleek, modern interior. Like the Aloft Detroit at the David Whitney, these projects reflect the city’s determination to fuse its past with its future.


Detroit’s story is one of rise, fall, and reinvention—an American city that refuses to fade quietly into history.

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Scenes from the mall

richard bence April 9, 2018

How radically our shopping habits have changed since the Austrian architect Victor Gruen built the first enclosed mall in suburban Minneapolis in 1956. He designed it to be a pedestrianised experience much like urban Vienna. What started as a social and economic idea facilitated by the interstate highway system led to a climate-controlled ecosystem for consumption. Malls defined the way we were, how we used to interact. Tiffany’s 1987 mall tour helped her reach number one: they were the place to be.

Back in the early to mid-1980s, when the Valley Girl was in her glory, the Galleria was an icon, the mall of malls for teenagers. Celebrated in Moon Unit Zappa's 1982 satirical single "Valley Girl," the Galleria raged with the hormones of teen-agers drawn in from all over the San Fernando Valley and beyond. They cruised the shops, hung out near the video arcade and partied in the food court. The Galleria was part of Valleyspeak, like ohmygawd! (oh, my God!) and fershur (for sure). High school cognoscenti knew that "the Galleria" meant the Sherman Oaks mall; the Glendale Galleria required the full name.

By 2022, analysts estimate that 1 out of every 4 malls in the U.S. could be out of business, victims of changing tastes, a widening wealth gap and the embrace of online shopping. The mall has been America's public square for 62 years, where a huge swath of middle-class America went for far more than shopping. The mall can no longer compete with the frictionless experience of e-tail. Malls, created for ease and comfort, have been replaced by the ruthless efficiency of digital shopping.

Seph Lawless portrays these abandoned malls as apocalyptic ruins that were at one time a nexus of daily life. They serve as haunting reminders of a pre-digital age before cell phones and the internet created a 24/7 insta-culture of wanting everything now.

* update Dec, 2019: Depending on who you speak to, American Dream, the optimistically named $5bn mall-slash-entertainment center under construction in New Jersey’s Meadowlands is either the future of shopping and a soon-to-be tourism mecca, or it’s an environmental disaster, taxpayer ripoff and a hubristic folly gambling on a retail format that has had its day. Can this giant New Jersey mega-mall revive US retail? Or will customers go for the experience and then go home and buy something sitting in their living room, in their underwear?

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Postcard from New Mexico

richard bence February 26, 2018

There is something deeply spiritual about New Mexico in the quiet of winter. The majesty of this sacred land of American Indians and their mountains, their beautiful Pueblo and coyotes, helped me come to terms with the loss of my Dad. It was like a spiritual shock absorber being there to receive the news, surrounded by the stillness of the winter-stark landscape.

 

We stayed in Taos which is meant to be so spiritual you could land in Tibet if you bore a hole through the bottom of it. The thickness of adobe walls were like a warm blanket trapping all the heat inside. I felt cocooned by the architecture and the history of the hotel which was originally built as an artists’ colony by a pioneering woman called Mabel Dodge Luhan. During the 1930s, Georgia O’Keeffe, Carl Jung and DH Lawrence found inspiration that would shape their lives’ work there.

 

In the late 1960s at the height of his career, Dennis Hopper left Hollywood for artistic bohemia in New Mexico. He stayed at the Mabel Dodge Luhan House while editing Easy Rider (1969), prompting Taos’s hippie invasion. The artists’ colony was bought by Hopper in 1970 and named The Mud Palace, which he filled with a collection of interesting and beautiful people. Artsy beatnik women from New York, Hollywood celebrities and starlets, rock stars and artists, producers and poets mingled with locals from Taos’ Native American community. Mabel would have loved it.

 

We visited the Taos Pueblo nearby, with adobe structures that are estimated to be over a thousand years old. It stirred the emotions and connected me to something ancient and eternal. Dad would have loved New Mexico. He was happiest when connected to the earth with man’s oldest four-legged companion by his side. I learned how the simple act of walking in nature can be a tonic for the soul from him. It’s primal. 

 

As my friend and I were wandering around the grounds of St Francis Cathedral in Santa Fe on Christmas Day, a man gave me a conker. He talked about his love for the tree it came from. He seemed like he was part of the original tribe of artist thinkers who migrated there for light and peace. An old soul. I cherish those moments of pure human kindness from a stranger when traveling. It felt like a life-giving blessing. Like the tendrils from the other side as my father rode off into the sunset for good.

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Modernism Week 2018

richard bence February 20, 2018

The mission of Modernism Week, an 11-day event in Palm Springs with 100,000 people expected to attend, is to celebrate and foster appreciation of midcentury architecture and design. The breakout star this year is the Aluminaire House, Albert Frey’s modernist masterpiece which is finally finding its forever home in Palm Springs.

 

As the first all metal pre-fabricated house in the US, it was a sensation that helped launch a new architectural movement when it was designed in 1931. The home, which was transported in a truck to Palm Springs last year after living in a shipping container in New York, was intended to be an example of the possibilities for mass-produced affordable housing using inexpensive materials.

 

Palm Springs is where its architect honed his desert modernism style and lived from 1934 until his death in 1998. “Frey is our patron saint; even if he’s not that well-known across America, in Palm Springs he’s beloved,” says Modernism Week’s Mark Davis. “I thought Aluminaire was a myth, or that it was long gone.” Now the orphaned house will be resurrected in a new park near the Palm Springs Art Museum. 

 

Aluminaire was designated in 2016 by “Architectural Record” as one of 125 (#30, right after Corbusier’s 1931 Villa Savoye) most important works of architecture worldwide in the 125 years since the magazine’s founding in 1891. More information about the park, designed by Mark Rios and Nate Cormier of Rios Clementi Hale Studios, as well as the site for the reassembled steel and aluminium house slated for installation in 2020, will be shared on Friday February 23.

 

Modernism Week runs until Feb 25, 2018; modernismweek.com

 

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Dreamlover

richard bence February 15, 2018

Kurt Andersen’s book “Fantasyland” has changed the way I look at America, and my relationship with it. He suggests that Americans are predisposed to fantasy. That this strange post-truth era we are living in is actually nothing new. America was created by people resistant to reality checks, he says. A believe-whatever-you-want fantasy is deeply embedded into the American DNA. I think he might be onto something. He talks about guns and how the American appetite for immersive make-believe doesn't just end at Hollywood and hair dye. There is a line extending from flying saucer obsessives to knee-jerk conspiracists to weaponized children living out their combat fantasies. We are merely cast members in a 24/7 tableau vivant, proffers Andersen. I must confess to being a fully paid-up member of the "fantasy industrial complex" that Andersen talks so eloquently about. From my first dose of Disney World in 1988, I became intoxicated by America. As a frightened, lonely gay kid, magical thinking became my escape hatch, a portal to another world. "Movies were a powerful and unprecedented solvent of the mental barriers between real and unreal," says Andersen. I binged on its bottomless cocktail of fantastical wishfulness and became transfixed by the dazzling spectacle of make-believe from its dispenser-in-chief, Michael Jackson. Then in 2014 I moved to Los Angeles, the home of fairytales and show biz, a city that has been telling truth-adjacent narratives about itself from the beginning: palm trees were imported to match the fantasy image that was being sold to lure people in. As somebody who has always exerted a great deal of energy to get my realities to match my fantasies, I am right at home in California, named after Calafia, a fictional queen who ruled over a mythic all-female island thought to be a terrestrial paradise like the Garden of Eden or Atlantis. I’m always going to be fantasy-prone, but today I’m under no illusions about what America is, and isn’t. To truly love a place you have to let it be what it is. Myths are meant as inspirations. A myth lifts us up, carries us away to other possibilities, but real life is always going to fall short of our fantasies. The truth will set you free, but only if it’s the sort that isn’t just inside your head.

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Earth dad

richard bence February 5, 2018

Justin Timberlake was a Mouseketeer who danced and sang his way into the hearts of 90s America alongside Britney, Christina and Ryan Gosling. He went on to become a heartthrob in the boyband N Sync before releasing his first solo album, Justified, in 2002. Interesting to notice, then, how the 37-year old performer, who played the Super Bowl halftime show for the third time yesterday, is so keen to embrace the aesthetic of his Tennessee roots for his latest release, Man of the Woods. The fire-building, creak-wading Justin of 2018 is all about flannel shirts and fatherhood, which is fine. Timberlake is embracing the fantasy of the rugged cowboy and the pioneer frontiersman, yet this is a guy who built a career ripping off Michael Jackson's moves and exposing Janet Jackson’s boob, lest we forget that infamous "wardrobe malfunction" at the 2004 Super Bowl. Jackson’s career was damaged. Timberlake’s was not. That America is unfairly harsh on women (Hillary) and loves policing the bodies of women of color (Janet) is not news. La Timberlake’s latest embrace of folksy Americana dances on the feather line between fantasy and reality. But America’s willingness to believe in exciting untruths reaches its apotheosis at the Super Bowl which is itself an unstoppable fantasy selling machine blending entertainment, advertising and sport. The perfect platform, perhaps, for a revisionist invocation of red state “roots” in a bid to distance yourself from the wholesale support you and your wife gave to Hillary at your home in California in the run up to the 2016 election? Even though the Prince-inspired sound of Timberlake’s latest album is as studiously soul-funk as ever, the "country" look represents a volte-face that is tailor-made for a post-factual era, where a national hunger for magic and drama got a man with a Brobdingnagian talent for the fantastic elected president. America is doubtless having a powerful cultural moment, just a very different one from 2016 when Beyoncé delivered her highly political Super Bowl half time show.

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Chronicling queer existence at the gay x-files

richard bence December 1, 2017

New York City’s Stonewall riot in 1969 is widely regarded as the genesis of the modern LGBT rights movement. But resistance started here in Los Angeles with the formation of the Mattachine Society in 1950, the nation's first homosexual political organization. Several members of the Mattachine, including devoted bibliophile and science fiction fan Jim Kepner, met to discuss creating a magazine for homosexuals. In November 1952 they formed ONE Inc. and in January 1953 published the first issue of ONE Magazine, which would become the first widely distributed publication for homosexuals in the United States.

 

An avid hoarder, Kepner’s collection included other individuals' most intimate possessions, often things their families would have destroyed. In 1994, ONE and Kepner's archive merged, becoming solely a repository for LGBTQ materials. Under the strong directorship of Joseph Hawkins, ONE’s unwavering mission to preserve rare documents that mainstream institutions have historically deemed uncollectable or lacking merit can be traced back to the pioneering spirit of Kepner, who was operating in a time when loving the wrong person could make you a criminal.

 

Today, ONE Archives is the oldest continuing LGBTQ organization in the United States and the largest repository of LGBTQ materials in the world. ONE encompasses a collection of two million items, including pathos-driven letters which give a poignant insight into the lives of gay Americans of yesteryear. “There’s a particular aspect of actually coming here and touching the hem of the skirt, so to speak, that makes it a completely different thing,” explains Hawkins. “Just touching the letters written on onionskin by Esther Herbert to her girlfriend Marvyl, you sense that these are from a long time ago and the penmanship is completely different; so it’s not only the fact that we are a repository it’s the idea that in coming here there is an almost spiritual experience of being able to connect yourself to something that is so far removed.”

 

In the digital age, when ‘likes’ matter more than letters, analog data is disappearing fast. The need to protect queer cultural memory is more important then ever. Standout letters include one sent by the U.S. government to two men who were applying for a visa in 1975 that uses the word “faggots”, which is horrifying enough. But the physical act of holding a cultural touchpoint in your hand is transformative. “When you're really touching documents that have deep meaning for you as a member of this culture, it transcends all things and makes you connected to that event in a way that I don't think anything else does,” says Hawkins.

 

What’s fascinating is the secret language and pennames that many queer authors were forced to cultivate to protect their identities. Jim Kepner, one of the founders of this institution, had “Dr Fecal de Chevaux” as one of his pennames, which in French means, “Dr Horseshit”. Bailey Whitaker, an African-American man who gave this organization its name, went by “Guy Rousseau” at the time. Edith Eyde, who created the first lesbian magazine “Vice Versa” in Los Angeles in the late 1940s, went under the penname “Lisa Ben”, an anagram for lesbian.

 

“They were not only making up names they were making fun of things,” explains Hawkins, who is currently studying early science fiction fan clubs in the United States. Eyde also served as secretary of the Los Angeles Science Fantasy Society under the name ‘Tigrina’. Her fan letters throw light on the allure of imaginary realms for LGBT folk in an era when publications addressing homosexuality were automatically deemed obscene under the Comstock Act until 1958. “One of the really fantastic things here is that many people had to have pseudonyms because you couldn't have the same name to go to work because you’d be blacklisted,” says Hawkins. Eyde produced Vice Versa secretly at her job as a secretary at Hollywood's RKO Studios. If caught she could have lost her job, been arrested, and had her life destroyed.

 

While the public is encouraged to visit, Hawkins is keen to point out that this is not an immediate experience. “There’s all this deciphering that has to go on. So they have to be willing to sit here for a while to get it and be respectful of the materials that they’re touching,” he says. “It takes a kind of romance to get the information out.” Also, be prepared for an intense emotional and physical reaction. For some visitors, the smell of glue that they haven’t smelt in 25 years or just the mustiness of old paper can be a transportive experience. For others it can trigger memories of a lonelier time when modes of entry into the gay world were limited. Pre-internet, often the only lifeline people had was the naughty section of the local bookstore, which opened up alternative universes of perception (and occasionally chance encounters). That sense of catharsis, stored in the palpable fibers of these materials, gets carried into the present. “This creates a safe space. Right after the elections, people came here and hung out because it seemed like they could just be.”

 

What’s so striking is that these letters, filled with longing, were never meant to be read. Indeed many of them were going to be thrown away and lost forever. “We are nothing, we are horrible people who are supposed to be thrown away, pushed out, ignored. This space is actually where you come to find out that’s not true at all,” says Hawkins. “We as a group of people have been banned from having our own heroes, our own forebears, our own great leaders. They've been erased from history. This place is to correct that erasure. We’re allowing people to find their history that has been taken away from them,” explains Hawkins. “Being here and being with that gives you a sense of the world that you just don't get any place else.”

 

one.usc.edu

halloween.png

Ghost storeys

richard bence October 24, 2017

Los Angeles—the land of make believe where even the palm trees are transplants—thrives on an escapist-aspirational energy generated by the Hollywood dream factory. While the birthplace of cinema often plays somewhere else—Haddonfield, Illinois in the case of John Carpenter’s Halloween (1978), for example—the buildings and houses that feature in our favorite horror movies are often located here in Los Angeles.

Laurie Strode is stalked through the Doyle’s house on North Orange Grove in West Hollywood, which is actually across the street from the Wallace’s house, where her friend Annie was babysitting (until her murder). The house in A Nightmare on Elm Street (1984) is a block away on North Genesee Ave, also in West Hollywood. Silverlake’s Canfield-Moreno Estate played the Stab 3 movie producer’s house in Scream 3 and Hillcrest Academy High School in Halloween H20: 20 Years Later. The Victorian used for exteriors in the John Landis-directed music video for Michael Jackson's Thriller is located in the historic Angelino Heights neighborhood near Echo Park. You’ll find the Charmed house on the same street (Carroll Ave).

But in the Upside Down world of LA, where fantasy and reality often become blurred, things are seldom as they seem. Underneath that relentlessly blue Californian sky lurks a haunting history of horror far worse than fiction. 1969 is widely considered to mark the end of innocence for Los Angeles's bucolic canyons, Topanga, Laurel, Benedict and Coldwater, when beauty turned to brutality with the Manson Family murders. The serpentine canyons are beguilingly beautiful, but out of bounds and lawless. Like somehow the rules don't apply. The ghosts of the past are very much alive in a town that wants more than anything to forget. Lock your doors, bolt your windows, turn off the lights. And grab the popcorn.

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