With its magnetic mix of rugged individualism and European flair, Montreal exudes an irresistible French-Canadian joie de vivre. A short jaunt from most U.S. cities, Montreal feels like a quick trip to Paris. The blend of Canadian and French cultures can be seen throughout the city’s design, art, and food. While the gastronomy scene has always leaned toward high-end French cuisine, a new influx of immigrants is bringing a variety of tastes and textures to the mix. Montreal is also embracing the modern age with the opening of sleek luxury hotels, and avant-garde art exhibits from Quebecois designers and creators.
In an increasingly globalized world, Montreal venerates its deep-seated local culture. French colonists settled Quebec in the early 1600s, and their descendants have never forgotten that intrepid foray, hence the province’s enduring separatist movement and its motto, Je me souviens—“I remember,” rendered pointedly en français, which may or may not be a jab at the British. This city of 1.75 million, set on an island at the confluence of the St. Lawrence and Ottawa rivers, is infused with a pioneer spirit and an unpretentious pride in the homegrown. Here, what to do and where to stay in Montreal now.
Stay:
Discerning travelers will love Hotel William Gray, located in Old Montreal, with elegant rooms that look down on the fairytale rooftops and cobbled streets below. Meanwhile, the grand dame of Montreal’s hotel scene—the Fairmont Queen Elizabeth—reopened in 2017 after a $140 million facelift, with a new look that hearkens back to the middle of last century (think lots of gold and chrome), fitting given its 1958 debut. Make sure you visit the room where John Lennon and Yoko Ono had their 1969 bed-in.
Do:
For a reminder of Expo 67, check out Habitat 67, pictured, one of the first examples in North America of an eco-friendly and affordable apartment building. Designed by Moshe Safdie, the edifice is primarily occupied by renters and owners but it opens up for 90-minute guided tours from May 1 to October 31.